![]() 11/15/2015 at 16:14 • Filed to: 9-2x, Tone Ring | ![]() | ![]() |
Long story short, I used a hammer to force the rear rotors on over the drum brake. BAD IDEA in hindsight. I ended up breaking the ABS tone ring. Can some insightful people provide some feedback?
I am going to buy a used replacent tone ring. The picture below is what the seller is shipping me. Am I going to have an issue with the small gouge circled?
![]() 11/15/2015 at 16:35 |
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errm, pray that that is just dusty and dirty and not an actual gouge.
ABS systems are very sensitive. their nature demands it.
I had mounted my sensor the wrong way on my bike. It freaked out, locked me OUT of the brakes, then defaulted to non-ABS when it realized something was off.
if your going to replace a ring, get a brand new piece.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 16:42 |
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They seller says that it is an actual gouge. Very small, but still there. Thank you for your input!
![]() 11/15/2015 at 16:44 |
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Reluctor rings aren’t very expensive - <$50, for sure. I’d just buy a new one, given the effort involved in changing them.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 17:05 |
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This one is more like $90 :/ There is a trick where you cut it in half and then bolt it on in order to not have to pull the hub. I’m trying to get a cheaper used one in case it goes wrong.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 17:08 |
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If it was my bike, absolutely no way jose would I risk it.
a car.....ehhh...MAYBE.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 17:13 |
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I just don’t want to spend the money if it won’t work. I feel like it’s the kind of part that either works or it doesn’t. If there is a chance it won’t work, I probably won’t mess with it.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 17:17 |
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My advice: do it right the first time, and you won’t have to waste your time and money to do it right the second time.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 17:21 |
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![]() 11/15/2015 at 17:40 |
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Just be glad your ring is a separate piece. On my car it’s built into the wheel hub.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 18:05 |
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Wow, how is it that much? Do you know the specs? Maybe you can find one the same for less.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:03 |
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Yeah. I have the part number. It was used on a wide range of models, but the cheapest I can find new is $75 from a less than well known site. I wish I had salvage yards near me I could just go hunting through.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:04 |
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I’ve had a 9-2x aero and newer WRX. I remember used rear knuckles being pretty cheap at local junkyards (>$75). Might be easier to replace the whole thing than trying to screw around with fitting the ring on. I’ve also had abs wheel speed sensors on other cars fail just from hammering on suspension/brakes They are pretty sensitive.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:24 |
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I super glued my Subaru tone ring back together with no issues. PS. Front wheel bearings from the rust belt are tight
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:30 |
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I’ve thought about that route. I just don’t want to get a used one where the bearing is on it’s way out and the bushings are worn.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:35 |
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I was prepared to try that, but mine broke into 3 pieces and it bent a small amount. My plan was to get a cheap used one and cut it in half to install it.
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:36 |
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In order to properly install it you still have to pull the wheel hub :/
![]() 11/15/2015 at 19:39 |
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Not going to lie, it was pretty similar to that. The rotors had a really tight fit going back on, and rather than spending my time meticulously figuring things out I figured I would take the hammer shortcut.
![]() 11/16/2015 at 15:36 |
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I’ve had excellent luck with replacement hubs and spindles from junkyards. Usually they are much lower mileage than what I’m taking off, and if I have a problem, they have good warranties.
I only changed the rear wheel bearings on my 09 WRX, and I’m not sure if it is the same as an 05, but IIRC it is extremely helpful to have one of the screw-style ball joint splitter tools that the auto parts stores specify for German cars.
That being said, if you’re going to cut the ring in half to fit it, I wouldn’t worry about that gash.
![]() 11/16/2015 at 15:37 |
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Also if you’re looking for used parts a great site is car-part.com
![]() 11/17/2015 at 18:30 |
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How do you go about buying from junk yards? I feel like that industry would be a major hit or miss trying to find reputable parts.
The theory behind cutting it half is that you cut it in a “valley” where the ABS sensor doesn’t read anything, so it technically shouldn’t matter. The gouge is on a “peak” where there ABS sensor does read. I do see where you are coming from, though.
![]() 11/18/2015 at 11:17 |
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I usually just look up whatever I’m looking for on car-part, call the junkyard to see if they’ve got it and either have it shipped or go pick it up. Usually they aren’t very friendly to the DIYer, most of their business is selling to shops. But the bigger high-turnover shops have really high quality parts. And everything is warrantied.
I can give you an example. My 09 WRX had a problem with an oil screen in the feed line to the turbo that would clog and starve the turbo of oil. This happened and caused my turbo to sieze. I found one at a junkyard for like $600 with 30k miles (much less than what they were selling for on the forums). But when I got the turbo, it has some damage to the exhaust housing studs. Called up the place that sold it to me and they said “no problem ship it back and we’ll give you a full refund”. Found anothet one for $650 at a junkyard with similar miles and it worked perfectly.
I also had to put new A/C compressors and power steering pumps on both my saab and subaru, and got them each for around $100 at the junkyard with 20k-30k miles. Sure beats the questionable quality aftermarket stuff from the auto parts stores for 1/3 the price.
![]() 11/18/2015 at 11:20 |
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BTW that turbo is the only time I’ve ever had to return a part to a junkyard.